Category: With silken coats, and caps, and golden rings, with ruffs, and cuffs, and farthingales and things. A garment your persona may have worn.
Inspiration:
Both versions of Juan de Alcega’s Libro de Geometria, Pratica, y Traca (1580 and 1589) contain several cutting diagrams for vasquinas, which I interpret to be a skirt that can be worn as an underlayer (ie a petticoat), or as an outer layer for non-court styles.
As I am refreshing my camping wardrobe, and want clothing that will be wearable at increasingly warm Canterbury Faires, I chose to make a linen version of this garment to complement my existing woolen skirts.
Pattern
Alcega has numerous cutting diagrams showing the most efficient way to cut this garment out of different widths of fabric, for example:
Construction
I adapted the pattern from Alecga and constructed it using machine sewing for the initial long construction seams, and hand sewing for finishing the seams, hem, waistband, and eyelets.
The back is pleated, using knife pleats, into the waistband, while the front is kept mostly flat, for a flattering line over the stomach. To allow for maximum flexibility of use (and to fit pockets conveniently underneath), I chose to have dual side openings closed with a lace threaded through eyelets.
Verdict
It is lovely having another linen skirt to wear in warm weather. Additionally, the dual openings allow access to multiple pockets, but also permit adjustment to suit both what I am wearing, and body fluctuations.
However, I do think it is a bit plain and intend to add multiple stripes of a different red fabric around the hem.
Resources
- “Tailor’s Pattern Book 1589” by Juan de Alcega, translated by Jean Pain and Cecilia Bainton
- “Daily Life in Spain in the Golden Age” by Marcelin Defourneaux
- A. LaPorta, avocational historian and tailor https://www.facebook.com/alaportahistorian